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Aurea Gold and Diamonds

The Rings

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Aurea Gold and Diamonds
Rings collection cover.

The Rings

Sourcing the stone

The stone is examined loose, in daylight and under lamp, and turned for the angle that gives it the most life. Only then is the metal designed to hold it there.

  1. Loose oval blue sapphire held in tweezers in window light and lamp light.
    Stone firstThe centre stone is chosen loose, in daylight and under lamp.
  2. Cushion-cut diamond turned in tweezers, seen through a jeweller's loupe.
    The angleEach stone is turned for the angle that gives it the most life.
Jeweller's fingers holding a yellow-gold diamond halo ring above its pencil design drawing on burgundy velvet.

Design and model

The ring is carved in wax at full size and tried on before any gold is used, then recarved until the proportions hold from every angle.

  1. Hand painting a gouache rendering of a gold cocktail ring with a green centre stone.
    PaintingThe ring is painted at full size before it is carved in wax.
  2. Hands carving the shoulders of a green wax ring model on a steel ring mandrel.
    ProportionShoulders and band are recarved until they hold from every angle.
Rose gold cocktail ring with a large emerald-cut blue stone, sapphire corner accents and a diamond-set split shank.
Yellow gold ring with a round solitaire diamond in a square halo, baguette diamonds along the shoulders.
Rose gold flower ring with a round ruby at its centre, diamond-tipped petals and a pavé split band.
Men's yellow-gold pavé diamond signet ring in a burgundy velvet ring box, tweezers resting against its face.

Craftsmanship

The centre stone is secured claw by claw in opposing pairs, and the pavé is set outward from it. The inside of the band is left smooth enough to turn freely on the finger.

  1. Setter pushing gold claws over a round diamond on a ring held in a ring clamp.
    SettingStones are set outward from the centre, claw by claw.
  2. Fine brush laying green enamel into a rose-gold signet ring, a small kiln glowing behind.
    ColourEnamel is fired in before the final stones are set.
  3. Gold diamond ring held against a small spinning felt polishing wheel.
    PolishingThe band is polished smooth enough to turn freely on the finger.
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The Rings

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